Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Presenting: Banta Traoré

Banta only wears one pair of earrings these days, but her ears are littered with a trail of holes from the bottom to the top of her earlobes. Oh, she'll say to me, you should have seen me when I was young! She was her mother's only child, and her mother doted on her. Not only were her ears filled with gold, but she had extensions in her hair and the prettiest outfits. There was just one problem: Banta's father died while she was only a child, and her mother remarried, to the chief of the village.

Banta's new stepfather, Coby Daou, wasn't the father figure Banta may have hoped for. At twelve or thirteen or fourteen -- most Malians have not kept track of their birth and age -- it was time to be married, and Coby picked Daraman Daou to be Banta's husband. Banta didn't like Daraman and resisted the marriage. When I press Banta to tell me what she didn't like about her future husband, she grows exasperated. Some people you like, she says, and some you just don't. I think Banta had bigger aspirations for herself, higher and farther than Daraman Daou. With all that gold in her ears, how could she not?



The chief of the village, however, cared little about the way Banta carried herself and the pretty clothes she wore. Without her biological father to stand up for her and refuse the marriage, Banta was powerless: she married Daraman and became pregnant with her daughter, Cissé. Banta never recovered from the birth -- it tore up her uterus and she had constant stomach pains. She tried traditional healers and was sent here and there by the state health care system to no avail: she would never give birth again.

While Banta cared for her child and searched for a cure, her husband disappeared. One day, Daraman, disappeared, and no one could say where he had gone. She was left alone, sick, with her baby, but rather than seeing it as a burden, it was just the opening Banta had been looking for.

As soon as Cissé was weaned, Banta packed her bags and left, too, leaving Cissé with her family in the village. She traveled through Mali and across Burkina Faso, here and there until she made it to Abidjan, the capital of the Ivory Coast. A half-brother lived there and Banta made herself at home. She walked the streets selling produce and earning enough to buy soda for ten cents and sixteen big yellow bananas all for only twenty cents. She got fat and dressed up to walk down to the beach. Afraid of the genies and devils lurking in those blue waters, she never knew what the Atlantic Ocean felt like on her skin.

Through the Malian community in Abidjan, Banta learned that Daraman was living there too. No one believed that Banta could be Daraman's wife -- beautiful Banta, with that swing in her step and a mouth that never stopped.

After 7 months, Banta went home without Daraman. When she arrived in the village, she knew that she must remarry before Daraman came home and humiliated her by taking a second wife. There was a soldier posted to the village, living just at the edge of it, and he began to ask about Banta. With the soldier, it was different. With the soldier, Banta felt what she hadn't with Daraman.

Banta told her stepfather that she wished to remarry. He laughed in her face and said she would stay with Daraman. No, Banta said, she would remarry and she would be the soldier's wife.

You have no father, the chief of the village told her, no one will give you away if not for me. You have no father.

Allah will be my father, Banta said, Allah is enough.


She went to the soldier and they travelled to Banta's mother's natal village, where her uncle gave her away.

The following years were good ones. Banta and the soldier moved from village to village, post to post. She describes that time as an easy, luxurious time in her life. She ate meat every day. Sugar and tea were plentiful. She had a servant to pull her water and pound the millet. After lunch, she drank tea and played games with the soldier and their friends.

It didn't last. The soldier was sent to Kidal, far into the North of Mali, all the way in the desert where the disenfranchised Tomashek live. Before Banta could join him there, the soldier was killed. With few other options and her thoughts on her ailing mother, Banta returned to live under her mother's roof. Nine months later, her mother, too, passed away.

After the death, it was assumed by the villagers that Banta would go back to Daraman. Banta was convinced of it too, and I can't get a straight answer from her when I ask why, why now, she would submit to Daraman? Maybe she was tired. She wanted to be home in the village and she was getting older. Her daughter was there, now married and raising her own children, and Banta wanted to be there.

Daraman had long since returned from Abidjan and taken a second wife, Denba. But he accepted Banta back, and she moved into the house she lives in today. Daraman began sleeping at Banta's house -- two nights with her, two nights with Denba -- and Banta and Denba switched off on cooking duties.

No doubt Denba did not appreciate Banta's sudden reappearance after so long on her own with Daraman. Perhaps she resented Banta and the money and time that Daraman would have given to her instead if Banta had not come back.

One night, as Banta and Daraman lay asleep under the hangar outside of Banta's door, there was a noise. Slowly, Banta emerged from sleep and realized that Denba was inside Banta's house, sprinkling a liquid medicine around the house. A drop here, a sprinkle there. The whole inner room was covered before Banta realized what was going on and cried out. She lunged at Denba and grabbed her tafe, leaving Denba to cower uncovered in the corner.

Banta ran to the chief of the village. She rant o her uncle. She rant to Denba's family screaming of what Denba had done to her. She ran back to her house and was restrained from beating Denba.

While the village condemned Denba's actions, the medicine had its effect. Within a week, Daraman was sleeping every night at Denba's agian. This time, Banta did not resist. She never asked for Daraman again and he never asked for her. She stayed in the village, making and selling her cookies, laughing and talking just as much as before.



This is Banta's story. She told it to me in bits and pieces, interspersed as we drank tea, watered her papaya trees and ate rice. One day, as she sifted the flour for her cookies, she began to tell me the part about her stepfather and his lack of support for her. As she spoke, the flour spilled all over the ground and dirt. Eh Allah, Banta said. I shouldn't talk about heartbreaking things while I'm working.

Her life is shaped by a search for security, as all our lives are. When her stomach was full, when she grew fat, those were the good days. When explaining herself, she talks of her marriages. Unlike many of the women I know, her life has been a whirlwind of different places and people, wealth and poverty. She takes the punches, and while she talks often of the good days, she is happy where she is now too.

These days, Banta sleeps with her sugar box next to the bed. She is a storyteller, an entertainer above all else. The years passed have given her plenty of material. And the years ahead? I just wonder what stories she will tell of me.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

In Arm's Reach

It is well over 100 degrees outside and hotter on the bus. Malians generally dislike wind and the doors and windows of the crowded bus are kept closed tight. I feel the sweat roll down my legs and look ahead. Jennifer and I are perched atop 20 liter jugs in the aisles. The back seats are crowded with Nigerians, their distinctive style easily separating them from the Malians. The woman have huge Rihanna-style bouffants and the men have pierced ears. When we stop at the checkpoint outside of Sevare, we are stuck for an hour as the gendarmes try to communicate with the Nigerians, who do not speak Bambara or French. The Nigerian women's faces, crowded with facial scarring, turn to one another and laugh at their inability to understand and the staring eyes of the crowd, feeling out of the place, I suppose, much like we do as toubabs.

In Sevare, the Nigerians get out and Joe and Ashley get on. We take the Nigerians seats in the back. While night has fallen, the busy churning of the motor beneath us keeps the sweat pouring down my legs. A Songhrai boy wears mittens for some inexplicable reason and stares back at us. In Douentza, a man sits down in front of Ashley and takes anxious sips from his non-Alcoholic Malt beer. He takes off his sunglasses, polishes them thoroughly, puts them on, polishes them again, puts them on, and finally moves them to perch atop his head. Every time the back doors open, he cleans his glasses again. The road between Douentza and Hombori, our destination is dusty as we move closer and closer to the Sahara. The bus soon fills with dust and when the lights turn on when we hit potholes, we can see the dust lying everywhere around us. The man in front of Ashley becomes even more anxious with the dust and repeatedly stands up to wildly shake out his clothes. He checks the floor of the bus -- littered with egg shells and plastic bags, orange and banana peals -- and sweeps away the trash surrounding him. He continually rises to check that his baggage is as he left it, sitting back down and frantically running his hands over his prayer beads. Ashley and I, after first supposing the man was perhaps drunk, realize he must have some form of OCD. In a country where you often have to travel to your regional capital to find a doctor, much less a psychiatrist, I cannot begin to imagine the struggles this man must face.

We reach Hombori well past midnight and it is not until morning, waking up to a hot sun, that we see the desolate landscape we have found ourselves in. The land surrounding the town is dry, filled with sparse brush grass and broken by huge rock formations. We can see sand dunes from the roof and there is a shop down the road renting snowboards to tourists to ride down the dunes. but we are here to climb Hombori Tondo, the highest point in Mali.

We pack as much water as we can carry into our bags and head out with little else. There is no water on the trail, the sun is hot, and we won't be back until tomorrow. We climb for three hours until we reach the back of Hombori Tondo, a huge rock formation with a flat top that overlooks Hombori. We are already tired when we reach the cable, where we will clip in and climb to the top. Jennifer goes first, clipping into the cable and using the rocks to leverage her body up the steep rock face. I am at the back, following Ashley, and the ascent is immediately terrifying and hard. Even though we are secured by our harnesses, I'm sure I'll fall and when I look down the descent is steep and the chance of help minimal. But Jennifer keeps moving, Joe clips into the next bolt and instructs Ashley on where to put her feet and all I can do is follow.

It is nightfall before we reach the top and we climb the last bit with our headlamps on and the bright moon shining over us. Exhausted, we roll out our mats and pull out food. I try not to think about the descent. We begin to talk about the life goals we will have crossed off after leaving Peace Corps. Crossing African borders by land, Joe says, and learning an African language. We laugh and Jennifer says it sounds like Joe is writing his goals to fit what life has offered him.

I start to think not so much about my own goals, but about what I've done here that I certainly wouldn't have had the guts to do on my own, without these friends by my side. Without these friends teaching me new words, there would be severe shortages in my Bambara vocabulary. My understanding of Malian culture would be limited only to what I saw and how I interpreted it. I wouldn't have climbed Hombori Tondo. I wouldn't have pushed so hard or asked for so much. Without these friends, I am not sure I would have had it in me to stay here or be so happy doing it.

Joe lights a fire to keep away the bugs and I spread my shirt in front of it to try to dry the sweat. The wind blows up in the night and I haven't been this cold since I left America. I sit up on my mat and put on my glasses. The moon has fallen and the stars are bright and oh-so-close, O'Ryan's Belt within arm's reach.

When I joined the Peace Corps, I did not think of the other volunteers I would meet. I didn't know how much I would depend on them to listen to my stories, pull me out of the dark days and make me laugh at it all. Without them, it would be too much to digest on my own. Combined, we can piece our experiences together to try to understand where we are and how we fit in.

In just months now, we will separate as we choose new adventures beyond Mali. But I have a feeling: coming home will not be easy either. Just as I clipped into the cable to keep me from falling, I will hold onto those Peace Corps friends. Here, they have kept me from losing my identity as Cassie. At home, they will be the few who know me as Samouhan.

*I continue to neglect my camera, but check out photos on Joe and Ashley's blog: http://wollersheimtime.blogspot.com/

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Near and Far

Do you know what it means to have your parents travel across the world, through countless airports and across borders, to see where you have built another life?

Do you know what it means to introduce your mother and your father to those have become your family, yet know you only as Samouhan?

It means a collision of two worlds: of Mali and America; Samouhan and Cassie; a life that I was born into and another that I've created.



I had been telling everyone that my parents would be coming to visit me since I moved to the village. In 2010, I said. In cold season, I said. In three months, two months, one month, I said. In 4 weeks, two weeks, three days. Before I left to pick them up, I came out of my house and looked at Banta. I tried to explain how I felt: nervous, excited, anxious. "I kono guana," she said: your stomach is heating up.

She was right, my stomach was heating up. Not only was the trip important to me in that my parents would be able to see and better understand what I had been doing, but in that the people who I have become close to here in Mali would meet my real family and catch a glimpse of who I was, and am, besides a single girl past marrying age who speaks halting Bambara.


When we step off the bus -- Mom, Dad, Marika and I -- I can feel everyone's eyes on us. As we walk by the women selling dry oranges and peanuts, past the spot where the chief of the village sits, and through the market, I try to see this place as it must look to Mom and Dad and fail. The goats and chickens are normal, the mud mosque just a sign that I'm close to home, and each door and compound wall is the home of a friend or neighbor.

There is something different though, and even I notice it: it's a buzz in the air, a hum that builds and catches. Samouhan's parents have arrived, and the news spreads fast. Banta comes running out, shaking Mom's hand, Dad's hand, Marika's, babbling so fast in Bambara that I tell her, "Remember, Banta! I told you not to be crazy! Greet them slowly." So she starts all over again, testing the Bambara my mother worked so studiously at for months before her arrival.

Neighbors begin to flow in, anxious to see my family who have come from so far just to see me. It takes us hours to leave the compound in the mornings, as a long stream of men and women, old and young, come to say hello. They ask about everyone in America. They ask about Johnny and Becky who have come before them. "Eh, Allah," they say and shower blessings upon us. They bring chickens and guinea fowl, meat and fruit and bread. There is so much food and more meat than I've seen since Tabaski. By the end of their stay, my family is tired of chicken, but I'm not: I know I'll never eat this well again while I'm still in Mali.

Dad has been named for the chief of the village's father, Coby Daou, and everywhere we go, people cry out to him: "Coby! Bi Daou!" By Malian standards -- with grown children and grey hair -- Dad is an elder and much respected man. He is, by far, the most important member of our group and everyone wants to shake his hand. There are offers to give him new wives and a parcel of lamp to build his own mud house. They call him the chief of the village. "Nba," Dad says. It's the only Bambara he knows (literally, "My mother" -- women say "Nse," which means "My power") but it is good enough.

It takes us hours to get anywhere, even in a small village. Every single person calls us over to say hello. One woman I don't know presents Mom with a jar of honey. Mom's name is Korobora, one of the original Coby Daou's wives. She is long dead, but her children are all eager to meet the American reincarnation of their mother and the general opinion among the community is that Mom looks just like her togoma, or namesake. A straight nose is a mark of beauty here and Korobora was well known for her nose, which she would often jokingly put on sale for about $10. Mom quickly gets in the spirit of it and tips her head in the air, pinches her nose, and cries out "Wa kelen kelen!" (Ten dollars!).

One morning, the chief of the village and all his counselors come to greet Coby and Korobora. The chief of the village has never visited my compound before and Banta squeezes chairs under the hangar that provides shade. I perch on the end of one of the long, wooden lounge chairs that Banta and I spend our days gossiping in and think of how the chief of the village would never have come here if not for the visit of my mother and father. It's almost Christmas and we have decorated the compound with Christmas decorations sent from home -- ornaments from Aunt Julie and fake snow from Cindy Nordlof. As the chief and his counselors give blessings and make short speeches, the snow slips from the top of the hangar and begins to gently fall over the chief.

As we go around town, people repeat over and over that I have become a true member of the community. It seems an odd time for them to say it, at the moment when my family have come, marking me as the child of a different world. But it's true -- I have never felt so a part of things and so honored. I will never be Malian but right now it is enough to just be the toubab who belongs in this village.

The chief of the village's mother -- Lahmine and Baamu and Adama's mother -- passes away towards the end of our visit after many years of sickness. We attend the funeral, my mother, Marika and I surrounded by women with heads covered and my father sitting among the men. Here, in this most intimate of moments, we have found a common turf. Despite the differences between these two worlds which are at times impressive and vast, exciting and intimidating, there is unity in this: the death of a mother.


Time passed all too fast as it is wont to do, and before I knew it, the trip that I had been looking forward to for so long was over and I returned to my village alone. Alone, but now with a bit more color with which the community could paint in the picture of Samouhan -- a little bit more of Cassie mixed in.

My friends and neighbors ask about Coby and Korobora and whether they have made it home safe to America. Doumbia laughs over the pictures he took with his cell phone of Coby eating rice and sauce with his hand. Sitan retells the story of taking her daughter for vaccinations with Korobora in tow. The children sing the song we sang on the radio, Banta puts her nose in the air and says "Wa kelen kelen!" and everyone laughs over Coby and his "Nba"s.

When boys refuse to believe that I won't marry them, I simply say, "Do you think Coby Daou would agree?" and everyone breaks into laughter because they know my father would never give away his only daughter for two measly goats. When others ask why I can't stay in Mali forever, I tell them Korobora wouldn't be too pleased and they nod and cluck their tongues because they have seen the way my mother looks at me.


Do you know what it meant to introduce my mother to Aissata? Do you know what it meant to watch my father pull water and my mother pound onions? Do you know what it meant to watch my parents watch me?

It means not just a collision of two worlds but a union. To be truly happy here, to truly feel a member of the community, is to feel like the barriers between my two worlds are breaking down. My family's visit was another fracture in that wall, another brick torn down.


Thank you to Dad, who survived without beer or a fan and made the perfect poster boy for my Bring Back the Boubou Campaign.

Thank you to Mom, who amazed everyone with her Bambara and me with her eagerness to understand it all.

And thanks to Marika, who came twice, made me the best dressed woman in village, and lives up to the definition of a true balaman muso.

Friday, February 5, 2010

SIDA BE

Check out the music video of Marika and I performing our hit single "Sida BE" at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3J2IslRelI

The song is about HIV/AIDS and became an instant in the village! The kids are still singing! Thanks to Mom for the excellent camera work! And our apologies for sideways viewing.

The lyrics (sung to Akon's Right Now Right Now) are below in Bambara and English.

Sida bana bana bana
A kajugu det
Sida bana bana bana
An ka kan ka sida ban

Sida be yoro bee
An k'a ban yan
Mogo ka na siran
An ka sida ban

An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An te maloya sida kan
An bee ka farra nogon kan

Sida bana bana bana
A kajugu det
Sida fura be soro
A be di mogo fou

A be i lafiya lafiya lafiya
I ka taa fura miné
Ka na siran
Fura be d'i ma fou

An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An te maloya sida kan
An bee ka farra nogon kan

An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An te maloya sida kan
An bee ka farra nogon kan

Sida be
Ka na siran
I ka taa depistage ke
Ka na siran
Ce ka capoti don
Ka na siran
I ka i mogo bee fo
Ka na siran

Sida be
Ka na siran
I ka taa depistage ke
Ka na siran
Ce ka capoti don
Ka na siran
I ka i mogo bee fo
Ka na siran

An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An te maloya sida kan
An bee ka farra nogon kan

An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An te maloya sida kan
An bee ka farra nogon kan

Est-ce que aw y'a faamu?
Est-ce que aw y'a faamu?
Sida ye cinen ye
Sida ye cinen ye
An bena sida ban
An bena sida ban
Wuli ka sida ban
Wuli ka sida ban

Est-ce que aw y'a faamu?
Est-ce que aw y'a faamu?
Sida ye cinen ye
Sida ye cinen ye
An bena sida ban
An bena sida ban
Wuli ka sida ban
Wuli ka sida ban

An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An te maloya sida kan
An bee ka farra nogon kan

An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An b'a fe ka taa joli sege sege sege sege
An te maloya sida kan
An bee ka farra nogon kan

AIDS sickness sickness sickness
It's really bad
Aids sickness sickness sickness
We must stop AIDS

AIDS is everywhere
We must stop it here
People cannot be scared
We must stop AIDS

We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We are not ashamed of AIDS
We will all come together

We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We are not ashamed of AIDS
We will all come together

AIDS sickness sickness sickness sickness
It's really bad
AIDS medicine is available
It's given free

The medicine lets you take it easy easy easy
Go to get the medicine
Don't be scared
It is given free

We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We are not ashamed of AIDS
We will all come together

We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We are not ashamed of AIDS
We will all come together

AIDS exists
Don't be scared
Go get tested
Don't get scared
Men should wear condoms
Don't be scared
Tell everyone
Don't be scared

AIDS exists
Don't be scared
Go get tested
Don't get scared
Men should wear condoms
Don't be scared
Tell everyone
Don't be scared

We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We are not ashamed of AIDS
We will all come together

We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We are not ashamed of AIDS
We will all come together

Do you understand?
Do you understand?
AIDS is true
AIDS is true
We will stop AIDS
We will stop AIDS
Stand up and stop AIDS
Stand up and stop AIDS

Do you understand?
Do you understand?
AIDS is true
AIDS is true
We will stop AIDS
We will stop AIDS
Stand up and stop AIDS
Stand up and stop AIDS

We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We are not ashamed of AIDS
We will all come together

We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We want to go get our blood tested tested tested tested
We are not ashamed of AIDS
We will all come together