Yesterday, Dr. Mary Alleman from the Center for Disease Control (CDC) in Atlanta and Dr. Tounkara, who works with the World Health Organization (WHO) here in Bamako, spoke to a small number of Peace Corps volunteers assembled at Tubani So, the Peace Corps training center not far from Bamako.
This Friday, health workers all over the country will head out door-to-door to begin yet another polio vaccination campaign. The CDC and WHO are working in cooperation with the Malian Ministry of Health in hopes to eradicate polio in Mali. Since 2008, Dr. Alleman reported, polio has begun to surge in West Africa. Starting in Northern Nigeria, it has now reached all the way up the West coast of Africa north to Mauritania, frustrating health workers internationally who had thought they were close to eradicating polio completely in Africa.
When polio cases began to pop up in Mali in 2008, health organizations took the cases seriously and the door-to-door campaigns began in a hope to contain and stop the spread of the virus.
But what about routine vaccinations? Why have they taken a back seat, while polio vaccinations have stormed ahead, irregardless of the cost and burden it places on local communities. Why were Malian health centers suddenly without access to the vaccinations vital to preventing outbreaks of other diseases, like measles, yellow fever, and tetanus?
Dr. Tounkara stood up to answer my questions. In 2009, he said, Mali's partner organizations and donors stopped buying Mali's vaccines in the expectation that Mali could now handle the financial burden of buying vaccines on its own. However, that same year, the cost of vaccines went up and Mali was unable to pay for enough vaccines to cover the entire country, leading to the lengthy shortages we experienced in my village.
This year, Dr. Tounkara said, Mali has been able to pay in full and the shortages should be over.
They haven't ended in my village, I said. The system is breaking down, and its terrifying to watch.
Dr. Tounkara took down the name of my village and promised me to look into the problem. I hope he finds some answers.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Two Steps Forward, One Step Back
During my first few months in my village, Mapha, the vaccinator and I would go out to neighboring villages three times a week -- he to vaccinate the babies and I to weigh them and give nutritional advice to their mothers.
The clinic in our village serves 25 other villages -- the closest of which is 3km away and the furthest over 15km. Under the Malian national health care system, villagers living less than 5km away from the clinic are required to walk to the clinic on fixed vaccination days -- Tuesdays at our clinic. On the other days of the week, the vaccinator should be going out to the more distant villages to give them their vaccinations.
And that is just what Mapha would do. He would start off early on his moto, a bag packed with his register and single-use needles, and a small cooler tied to the back of his moto filled with ice boxes and polio, measles, and yellow fever vaccines. When I went with him, he would ride a little slower on the sandy dirt roads so I could keep up with him on my bike.
During those early months, Mali was new to me and I was new to Mali. I could barely tell a mother her baby was at a healthy weight in Bambara and kept turning to Mapha, exasperated with my own limited Bambara and dependent on Mapha to help me give nutritional advice to the women.
We would arrive in a village and head for a central village meeting location, one with a bit of shade provided by stacked millet stalks or a big tree. Before we had managed to set up and hang the baby scale, the area would be full with fifty women and their screaming babies. At one small village, the town crier began his rounds of the village. In his loud voice, over and over, he announced that the white doctor had come, much to my horror and Mapha's amusement.
Mapha knew everyone and would alternate between screeching laughter -- his head thrown back -- reprimands and looks of disapproval that scared me with their severity when a mother had gotten behind in her child's vaccination schedule. The mothers all knew him too -- go easy today, Mapha, they would say. When the babies would start to cry after the shots, the mothers would point at Mapha. Mapha minen, they would say, Mapha's bad.
But then, perhaps 10 months ago, the vaccines disappeared. Mapha would go to San to get the vaccines to discover that there were none to be had, not only in San, but all of Segou, and maybe even, the rumor went, all of Mali. When the vaccines would come, it was never enough. They would be finished in one day, and the mothers would beg for us to just vaccinate one more child as Mapha tried to explain that the vaccines were simply gone -- boloci fura banna peuw.
After our Monday night radio shows Adama and I would have to announce that vaccinations would not be taking place the next day so that women wouldn't walk 10k to arrive at the clinic at 7am. I retired my radio show on the importance of vaccinations completely. Mapha no loner rode his moto out to the neighboring villages, staying behind to play cards outside the clinic. When we would receive vaccines, the crowd at the clinic would be so large we could not hear each other over the noise. There were fights and more than one black eye among the women over who had arrived first. The pushing and yelling got so bad that I began to dread the days when we did have vaccines.
No one can tell me exactly what the problem is or where the fault lies. At first we thought it was just a problem of getting the vaccines to Bamako and then the regional capitals and then to San and finally to us. But everyone I talk to says the vaccines are in hard to come by everywhere. Then there was the unconfirmed rumor that the Malian government had simply forgotten to order vaccines for 2010, thinking for some reason that the 2009 vaccines would last for two years. And finally there is the logistical problem that there are more people and more babies coming to the clinic for vaccines than the Malian government planned for based on birth certificates in our area.
Meanwhile, every couple of months, in Mali and much of West Africa, a huge door to door polio vaccination campaign takes place, funded by international donors. In every community in Mali, community health workers walk from compound to compound, administering an oral polio vaccine and marking the left-hand pinky finger of each child under five who receives the vaccine. There are t-shirts and paychecks for the community health workers go back and forth to each household, making complicated symbols with chalk on mud houses to signify whether all the children of the house have been vaccinated. There are unlimited boxes of the polio vaccine and white SUVs head into every village to monitor the progress of the campaign.
I am confident in saying that every child under five in my village has received the polio vaccine at least five times, but almost all babies are now behind in their vaccination schedule, if they have started it at all. Its a long walk to our village, and there are some villagers from the outer villages that Mapha has not seen for months. After working so hard and so long to convince villagers of the importance of vaccines, suddenly, Mali and the international community have dropped the ball. How can the polio campaign be so well organized and regular vaccines forgotten?
Those severe looks Mapha used to give? Now he just gives them to me, because we know the mothers are no longer at fault for being behind in their children's vaccinations.
The clinic in our village serves 25 other villages -- the closest of which is 3km away and the furthest over 15km. Under the Malian national health care system, villagers living less than 5km away from the clinic are required to walk to the clinic on fixed vaccination days -- Tuesdays at our clinic. On the other days of the week, the vaccinator should be going out to the more distant villages to give them their vaccinations.
And that is just what Mapha would do. He would start off early on his moto, a bag packed with his register and single-use needles, and a small cooler tied to the back of his moto filled with ice boxes and polio, measles, and yellow fever vaccines. When I went with him, he would ride a little slower on the sandy dirt roads so I could keep up with him on my bike.
During those early months, Mali was new to me and I was new to Mali. I could barely tell a mother her baby was at a healthy weight in Bambara and kept turning to Mapha, exasperated with my own limited Bambara and dependent on Mapha to help me give nutritional advice to the women.
We would arrive in a village and head for a central village meeting location, one with a bit of shade provided by stacked millet stalks or a big tree. Before we had managed to set up and hang the baby scale, the area would be full with fifty women and their screaming babies. At one small village, the town crier began his rounds of the village. In his loud voice, over and over, he announced that the white doctor had come, much to my horror and Mapha's amusement.
Mapha knew everyone and would alternate between screeching laughter -- his head thrown back -- reprimands and looks of disapproval that scared me with their severity when a mother had gotten behind in her child's vaccination schedule. The mothers all knew him too -- go easy today, Mapha, they would say. When the babies would start to cry after the shots, the mothers would point at Mapha. Mapha minen, they would say, Mapha's bad.
But then, perhaps 10 months ago, the vaccines disappeared. Mapha would go to San to get the vaccines to discover that there were none to be had, not only in San, but all of Segou, and maybe even, the rumor went, all of Mali. When the vaccines would come, it was never enough. They would be finished in one day, and the mothers would beg for us to just vaccinate one more child as Mapha tried to explain that the vaccines were simply gone -- boloci fura banna peuw.
After our Monday night radio shows Adama and I would have to announce that vaccinations would not be taking place the next day so that women wouldn't walk 10k to arrive at the clinic at 7am. I retired my radio show on the importance of vaccinations completely. Mapha no loner rode his moto out to the neighboring villages, staying behind to play cards outside the clinic. When we would receive vaccines, the crowd at the clinic would be so large we could not hear each other over the noise. There were fights and more than one black eye among the women over who had arrived first. The pushing and yelling got so bad that I began to dread the days when we did have vaccines.
No one can tell me exactly what the problem is or where the fault lies. At first we thought it was just a problem of getting the vaccines to Bamako and then the regional capitals and then to San and finally to us. But everyone I talk to says the vaccines are in hard to come by everywhere. Then there was the unconfirmed rumor that the Malian government had simply forgotten to order vaccines for 2010, thinking for some reason that the 2009 vaccines would last for two years. And finally there is the logistical problem that there are more people and more babies coming to the clinic for vaccines than the Malian government planned for based on birth certificates in our area.
Meanwhile, every couple of months, in Mali and much of West Africa, a huge door to door polio vaccination campaign takes place, funded by international donors. In every community in Mali, community health workers walk from compound to compound, administering an oral polio vaccine and marking the left-hand pinky finger of each child under five who receives the vaccine. There are t-shirts and paychecks for the community health workers go back and forth to each household, making complicated symbols with chalk on mud houses to signify whether all the children of the house have been vaccinated. There are unlimited boxes of the polio vaccine and white SUVs head into every village to monitor the progress of the campaign.
I am confident in saying that every child under five in my village has received the polio vaccine at least five times, but almost all babies are now behind in their vaccination schedule, if they have started it at all. Its a long walk to our village, and there are some villagers from the outer villages that Mapha has not seen for months. After working so hard and so long to convince villagers of the importance of vaccines, suddenly, Mali and the international community have dropped the ball. How can the polio campaign be so well organized and regular vaccines forgotten?
Those severe looks Mapha used to give? Now he just gives them to me, because we know the mothers are no longer at fault for being behind in their children's vaccinations.
Sunday, May 30, 2010
The Daou Dynasty
The Daou family are the big-wigs in town. They are both the village founders and the holders of power today. Adama Daou is the Chief of the village. Moussa Daou is the mayor and Siaka Daous was the mayor before him. Mapha Daou is the vaccinator and Oumou Daou is one of the birthing women. Mama Daou is the wealthiest man in the village. Adama Daou is the President of the managing body of the clinic and Ko Daou is the President of the radio. And if there is any new committee formed, any political position open, be sure a Daou will be appointed or voted in.
Although the village is now a mixture of Theras, Konates, Cissés and Traoriés, the Daous have no desire to relinquish their power. And the others know it and respect their wish, fearful of treading on the toes of the Daou family.
Perhaps part of their success in holding onto power comes from their ability to manage their own family like a high functioning bureaucracy.
My host family is a branch of the Daou family, made up of the Chief of the village, Adama Daou, his two sons and their families, and the Chief's younger brother (même père, même mère), Lahmine, and his family. There are over thirty members in their branch alonge, and they are based out of a large compound in the center of the village, its entryway opening to the road that runs through town. Adama's sons and Lahmine, my official host, each have their won compounds for each of their wives, but like any bureaucrat, they and their wives and children spend each day at the office -- the big family compound.
The roles of family members are well defined. The men handle farming, financial matters, the building and upkeep of family houses, and the raising of animals -- the cows, goats and chickens that fill the family compound and wander the village in search of food. The women do the cooking and raise the children . There is no such thing as 'gender bending', in this family, men and women stay where they belong. The rules stretch right down to who is in charge of fetching a glass of water (women) and who names the children (men).
There are ten women in my branch of the Daou family -- all various wives of the four men. The women take turns cooking for everyone, switching every two days. Millet porridge for breakfast, millet to for lunch and millet rice for dinner, a regimen that also rarely varies. While only one woman is on cooking duty at a time, stirring huge pots over a wood fire, all the women gather each morning to pound the millet together, laughing and gossiping as the tall, thick pestle flies up and down in their hands. While it is the women who cook, the men maintain control over the graineries, doling out millet little by little as the year goes along.
There are special dispensations too, rules set in place in case of death or births. Maternity leave for one -- after woman gives birth, she has forty days vacation from cooking duties, pounding millet, and any other work at the family compound. My host mother, Soté, recently gave birth to her sixth daughter, Tata, and is currently enjoying her last days on maternity leave. She takes her time getting dressed in the morning and heads over to the family compound not to pound millet but to show off her baby.
When Gaousou, one of Adama's brother's, died in February, there were bylaws already in place. After the funeral, Gaousou's wife Rokia moved into the family compound permanently along with her three children. She is still there today and will stay there until five months have passed since Gaossou's death. She is in mourning and although she helps out, she does not take on cooking duty or even step foot outside the compound. Once five months have passed, late this coming July, Rokia will be allowed to leave the compound. She will also be remarried to one of the men in the family, a way of ensuring her security and the future of her children. Its the Daou family form of life insurance, in a different form.
LIke any bureaucracy, there are always people milling about the compound and others coming in and out. Even today, two years in, I'm still trying to figure out who everyone is and how they fit into the Daou dynasty.
I am a Daou, too, and although I don't share cooking duties or help in the fields during farming season, I am certainly an element of soft power in the village for the Daous, a celebrity endorsing their brand. The Theras are the next most populous family in the village, and I know they would give a lot not only to become the mayor (they recently achieved great success by seeing a Thera appointed Imam of the main mosque), but also to see me -- or my Peace Corps successor -- named Thera. But as every Daou knows, the Theras are bean eaters, and I would never touch beans to save my life.
Although the village is now a mixture of Theras, Konates, Cissés and Traoriés, the Daous have no desire to relinquish their power. And the others know it and respect their wish, fearful of treading on the toes of the Daou family.
Perhaps part of their success in holding onto power comes from their ability to manage their own family like a high functioning bureaucracy.
My host family is a branch of the Daou family, made up of the Chief of the village, Adama Daou, his two sons and their families, and the Chief's younger brother (même père, même mère), Lahmine, and his family. There are over thirty members in their branch alonge, and they are based out of a large compound in the center of the village, its entryway opening to the road that runs through town. Adama's sons and Lahmine, my official host, each have their won compounds for each of their wives, but like any bureaucrat, they and their wives and children spend each day at the office -- the big family compound.
The roles of family members are well defined. The men handle farming, financial matters, the building and upkeep of family houses, and the raising of animals -- the cows, goats and chickens that fill the family compound and wander the village in search of food. The women do the cooking and raise the children . There is no such thing as 'gender bending', in this family, men and women stay where they belong. The rules stretch right down to who is in charge of fetching a glass of water (women) and who names the children (men).
There are ten women in my branch of the Daou family -- all various wives of the four men. The women take turns cooking for everyone, switching every two days. Millet porridge for breakfast, millet to for lunch and millet rice for dinner, a regimen that also rarely varies. While only one woman is on cooking duty at a time, stirring huge pots over a wood fire, all the women gather each morning to pound the millet together, laughing and gossiping as the tall, thick pestle flies up and down in their hands. While it is the women who cook, the men maintain control over the graineries, doling out millet little by little as the year goes along.
There are special dispensations too, rules set in place in case of death or births. Maternity leave for one -- after woman gives birth, she has forty days vacation from cooking duties, pounding millet, and any other work at the family compound. My host mother, Soté, recently gave birth to her sixth daughter, Tata, and is currently enjoying her last days on maternity leave. She takes her time getting dressed in the morning and heads over to the family compound not to pound millet but to show off her baby.
When Gaousou, one of Adama's brother's, died in February, there were bylaws already in place. After the funeral, Gaousou's wife Rokia moved into the family compound permanently along with her three children. She is still there today and will stay there until five months have passed since Gaossou's death. She is in mourning and although she helps out, she does not take on cooking duty or even step foot outside the compound. Once five months have passed, late this coming July, Rokia will be allowed to leave the compound. She will also be remarried to one of the men in the family, a way of ensuring her security and the future of her children. Its the Daou family form of life insurance, in a different form.
LIke any bureaucracy, there are always people milling about the compound and others coming in and out. Even today, two years in, I'm still trying to figure out who everyone is and how they fit into the Daou dynasty.
I am a Daou, too, and although I don't share cooking duties or help in the fields during farming season, I am certainly an element of soft power in the village for the Daous, a celebrity endorsing their brand. The Theras are the next most populous family in the village, and I know they would give a lot not only to become the mayor (they recently achieved great success by seeing a Thera appointed Imam of the main mosque), but also to see me -- or my Peace Corps successor -- named Thera. But as every Daou knows, the Theras are bean eaters, and I would never touch beans to save my life.
Saturday, May 8, 2010
The Impact of AID
It is hard to escape the impact of aid and development organizations in my village. UNICEF, USAID, World Vision, the European Union -- development organizations and NGOs are certainly trying to make a mark. Whether they have been successful is a debate to get into at another time. However, it provides an interesting perspective to detail exactly what exists in my village because of a development project. Whether its a person whose salary is paid by an NGO or consortium of aid programs and local community groups, vaccinations that are subsidized by foreign governments, or a new building, aid is everywhere.
Without aid, none of this would be in my village:
The list could go on and on. Take just one of these items and extrapolate from there. Vaccinations = a job for Mapha, the vaccinator = good food for Mapha's family and a concrete house with a tin roof = health and opportunity for Mapha's children = health for the thousands of children Mapha vaccinates = more hands in the fields and more mouths to fill = a larger population...and on it goes.
Most Malians I know are appreciative of the aid that is given to their community. Like many Americans who feel that it is their duty as those who have to help those who have not, many of the Malians I have come in contact with, express an expectation that toubabs should help out where they can.
The help is coming in. The community plays a large role in receiving much of the aid -- they provide the physical labor or a percentage of the money required to complete a project. USAID in collaboration with Peace Corps built the radio, for example, with a large monetary contribution from the village, manpower to build it, and it is now staffed by Malians who receive no salary.
Aid is interwoven into so many aspects of the village that it is hard to imagine what the village would be like without aid, or what effects aid will have on the village in the long run.
Without aid, none of this would be in my village:
- The clinic
- Mosquito Nets
- Vitamin A
- Birth Control
- Malaria prophylaxis for pregnant women
- Vaccinations and sterile, onetime-use needles
- HIV/AIDS testing and retrovirals
- Nutritional supplements for malnourished children
- The new hospitalization room at the clinic currently under construction
- Enriched porridge powder and the profit it brings in for Mama Traoré
- The bikes given to the community health workers
- The ambulance that comes to our village from San
- The solar panels and batteries that light the clinic at night
- The mayor's office and the salaries paid to the mayor and his staff
- The doctor
- 2 nurses
- The public elementary and middle school
- Student sponsorship/scholarships
- The preschool
- The radio
- The library and the books that fill it
- The local cereal bank
- The generator that provides electricity along the main road at night
- The covered market area
- The businesses that support the NGO and aid workers traveling along the main road; the income generated by the purchases of community members such as the doctor and myself who receive their salaries from an aid organization
- 3 pumps
- The local church
- All technical and educational trainings, including trainings on health topics, business management, knitting and sewing, animal raising, and improved farming received by villagers
- The Youth Center
- A trench to collect rain water for farming
- Money in villager's pockets from trainings, projects, and short-term jobs with development agencies
- Me.
The list could go on and on. Take just one of these items and extrapolate from there. Vaccinations = a job for Mapha, the vaccinator = good food for Mapha's family and a concrete house with a tin roof = health and opportunity for Mapha's children = health for the thousands of children Mapha vaccinates = more hands in the fields and more mouths to fill = a larger population...and on it goes.
Most Malians I know are appreciative of the aid that is given to their community. Like many Americans who feel that it is their duty as those who have to help those who have not, many of the Malians I have come in contact with, express an expectation that toubabs should help out where they can.
The help is coming in. The community plays a large role in receiving much of the aid -- they provide the physical labor or a percentage of the money required to complete a project. USAID in collaboration with Peace Corps built the radio, for example, with a large monetary contribution from the village, manpower to build it, and it is now staffed by Malians who receive no salary.
Aid is interwoven into so many aspects of the village that it is hard to imagine what the village would be like without aid, or what effects aid will have on the village in the long run.
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